2017:Controls

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Overall concept

Rectangular base large enough to hold the any of the current laptops that we have (approx 19.25" W x 13.75" D)

Top/lid will resemble a top hat.The sides will be curved to look like the brim. Painting will help define it better.

The hat will hold the XBOX controllers. A lid will be held on with magentics (drivers remove lid, pull out controllers).

Top will swing out on a pivot (1" copper pipe). Pivot will be on the left side, centered front-to-back. Top will be latched on the right side. There will be a 'kickstand' that swings down to support the top when it is swung open (1/2" copper pipe). The 'kickstand' will be held up by a magnet.

Controller cables will come up out of the pivot, then go into the hat.

Ethernet plug will be at the top of the pivot.

Power will come out of the base via retractable cord (from an iron).

Controls 1-31-17.png

To do

  1. Add female A/C power plug to cord reel (Jeff D was going to pick up one at Home Depot on 2/12).
  2. Re-install top half of latches after rim painting is complete on that end.
  3. Finish painting brim
  4. Design USB gear cover that actually works.
    1. Too tall on the inside (USB hub is off the ground)
    2. Port openings need to be taller to accomidate cable overmold
    3. Side USB ports are not lined up with holes
    4. Fix the slot thing that the cable comes out of, it does not need to be so wide.
    5. Make the wall thicker.
  5. Modify kickstand bracket (may not need, but would need to do something with the studs)
    1. Interferes with hat - add to base so holes can move back
    2. Might need to make it bigger to hold the magnet.

Post-assembly

  1. Add guitar straps (drill ourselves)
  2. Place USB hub
  3. Wire [all that is left is A/C power]
  4. Determine goggles for tophat.
  5. Whistle?

Completed

  1. Determine if we are going to fabricate the top hat. [we are fabricating]
  2. Create drawing for the top oval of the top hat. We will need two of these, one for the bottom and one for the top. [sent 1/22/17]
  3. Create drawing for the door of the top hat. [sent 1/22/17]
  4. Move pivot point inside the box, need to determine the correct pipe [has been moved inside; using 1" copper pipe from Home Depot]
  5. Find USB joystick part. [in shopping list; recieved]
  6. Find PWB for driving the LEDs [in shopping list; recieved]
  7. Determine if we need a (gutair) strap, if so add holes for it. [will do strap; hand drill holes later; take from last year's controls]
  8. Order LEDs [we have enough already. not enough for robot, so the robot team can order what the robot will need]
  9. Find and order round USB hub [in shopping list]<s></s>
  10. pick magnet to hold up kick stand
  11. make bracket to hold magnet (already have pressed in studs in top)
  12. Laptop holder height
    1. cord reel highest, so go by that
    2. put laptop power under it
    3. put lights PWB under it
    4. put broken switch PWB under it
  13. Base depth
    1. laptop holder + velcro + laptop + 1/4" for safety
  14. Top pivot
    1. put cap on bottom of pipe
    2. use U clamps to restrain to side of bottom: 1st just above the end cap; 2nd near top edge
    3. T on top of pipe, with T resting on top's bottom surface
    4. how to attach to top? solder flat stock to T and bolt to top (will need pressed studs for this in the top). Bushing? (if so, need to move pipe further from side) [use T, it will rest on top, maybe clamp to top]
    5. ethernet goes on top
  15. Top
    1. need pressed in studs to hold hat's lower rim
    2. put in 'recess' for bevel of T
    3. pressed in studs for strap that holds down T
    4. make hole through top the diameter of a 1" T
    5. finalize brim curves
    6. finalize pivot attachment (see Top Pivot)
  16. Bottom
    1. pressed in studs for laptop holder
    2. pressed in studs for PWBs
    3. pressed in studs for cord reel bracket
    4. double-check letter height, now that we made the side taller
    5. cutout for gear
    6. cutout for power cord and release [no longer needed]
    7. Cut lettering into sides of controls.
  17. Cord reel
    1. CAD bracket to hold it [started]
    2. slots for 'hooks' to go into
    3. holes for bolts at bottom (currently has zip ties in them to keep cord together)
    4. maybe shave off the 'feet' on band saw
    5. maybe integrate into laptop holder [will be its own bracket]
    6. needs to be near a side so cord can exit base and release be pressed [cord will be pulled up through after the top is opened]
  18. Top Latch [went with 1/2" copper pipe held with straps; magnetic to hold it up]
    1. design similar to 'gate cane bolt' (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-12-in-Black-Gate-Cane-Bolt-15464/202042236)
    2. one nub at height to support top when open
    3. another nub to lock latch when top is closed
    4. need bracket for side of base, to 2nd latch nub
    5. hole and offset slot in top to be able to pull up latch (latch needs to clear top so top can swing open)
    6. Other ideas: latches on end to hold top, and a 'kick stand' to support the top (held up by magnet) - could be copper, aluminum/steel in a variety of shapes, wood dowel that looks like a rope, etc.)<s></s>
  19. Look at Bob's steampunk stuff for inspiration.<s></s>
  20. design 'gear' cover for USB hub (3D printing this) [we have something, it was sent to Eric]
  21. design 'corner' gear (3D printing this) [we have them back; 2 actually]
  22. pick latches that will go on the ends
  23. Design something to hold/retain the Ethernet connector we decide to use.
  24. Design gear train (3D printing these, drill holes ourselves, need to go around handle; might not even have space) [we do not have space]
  25. Put on shopping list
  26. Ether net port (need to pick one or use what we have; investigate after we have cooper pipe)
  27. Order/Find
    1. Home Depot
      1. 1 - 1" copper T
      2. 1 - 1" copper end cap
      3. 3 - 1" copper pipe straps
      4. 1 - 6" length of 1" copper pipe
      5. 1 - 1/2" copper T
      6. 3 - 1/2" copper pipe straps
      7. 2 brackets for handle [brackets]
      8. 1 - 3/4"+ NM twin-screw clamp (for cables into hat) [unless Eric finds one]
      9. latches for top
      10. Pass through Ethernet jack
      11. 1 - 6" length of 1/2" copper pipe (should might already have) [we have this]
      12. Magnet to hold up 'kick stand'
      13. ​find thin metal for hat (roll of flashing: Debbie Supply or Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Amerimax-Home-Products-10-in-x-10-ft-Mill-Finish-Aluminum-Roll-Valley-68310/100054269)) [do not need, Mark brought in some]
      14. magnet for 'kickstand' (still need to pick one)
    2. *** ERIC LOOK HERE ***
      1. perf board for PWBs (3" x 9")
      2. 1 - 3/4"+ NM twin-screw clamp (for cables into hat)
      3. 12 - #4 and #8 stand offs (to told up perf board from base; light PWB to perf; joystick PWB to perf [we have some in MPT bin 10C]
      4. 16 - spade connectors for broken switches [we have these]
      5. USB extension cable for PWB
      6. 4 - 5 pin headers [we have these]
      7. 1 - 1000uf 50V capacitor
      8. 1 - 52ohm resistor
      9. 1 - 3pin connector for end of LEDs to perf board [we have this]
  28. Pre-assembly
  29. slot in 1" copper pipe to run cables
  30. Cord Reel Bracket
    1. Grind out interference that is marked in green on one of the brackets
    2. Test fit to cord reel including finding bolts to hold the cord reel
    3. Paint
  31. Laptop Bracket
    1. Test fit in base
    2. Test fit switches
    3. Paint
  32. Base
    1. Find/install post for the gear in corner, test fit gear
    2. Drill holes for pipe mounting straps (they might interfere with numbering)
    3. Drill holes for latches and test fit
    4. Paint
  33. Top
    1. Determine how we are going to deal with the interference issue between the kickstand and hat: Can either notch hat, slide hat over, or rotate hat 90°.
    2. Drill holes for latches and test fit
    3. Install and test kickstand.
    4. Install and test main pipe.
    5. Paint [spary paint is complete; brim still being worked on]
  34. Post-assembly
  35. Get handle brackets and straight piece of pipe
  36. LED Install
  37. Handle. 2 brackets [brackets] plus straight pipe

Horipad Driver Install

Get Driver

Microsoft instructions: http://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-on-windows/accessories/connect-xbox-one-controller-to-pc

Follow Windows 7 steps under: Download and install Xbox One Controller driver

You must use Internet Explorer

Get the one called "Microsoft - Other hardware - Microsoft Xbox One Controller" that is for AMD64 (i.e. 64-bit).

If 7-zip is on the PC, use that to expand the contents of the .CAB file.

Install - First Controller on the PC

Plug in control

It will not find one anywhere, so you can tell open the New Hardware wizard and click 'Skip Searching Windows Update'; otherwise you will be waiting forever.

Open Windows' Device Manager; find the Horipad controller; right-click and select 'Update Driver'; then browse to the folder where you unzipped the .CAB file.

It will take a while to install (this is another point where you can tell it to 'Skip Searching Windows Update'.

Once the Gamepad is done, it will then search for a HID driver. Not sure if 'Skip' can be used in this case, so let it finish on its own.

NOTE: if driver fails with error 37, then the problem is that the wdfcoinstaller01011.dll is not in the C:\windows\system32. the installer copies it to c:\windows\system32\driver instead. so copy wdfcoinstaller01011.dll from c:\windows\system32\driver to c:\windows\system32

Install - Second Controller on the PC

Plug in control

Since you have the driver already installed, you can open the New Hardware wizard and click 'Skip Searching Windows Update' for the gamepad.

It will then install the HID portion, again you can 'Skip Searching Windows Update'.

PSoC Install (for lights)

PSoC Creator IDE

Download latest "PSoC Creator" from Cypress (http://www.cypress.com/products/psoc-creator-integrated-design-environment-ide) and install it (use Typical install; at end run Updater and maek sure you have the latest stuff)

For user name and password, you can use: mailme@mailinator.com mailme123

Toolkits and Board Driver Install

Get controls2016 from SVN

Run: vcredist_x86.exe

Run: USBSerialSDKSetup.exe (do Typical install; at end run Updater and maek sure you have the latest stuff)

Run: CY8CKIT04942xxSetupOnlyPackage_revSA.exe ()do Typical install; at end run Updater and maek sure you have the latest stuff)

While you press and hold the SW1 Prog button on the cypress board, plug in the USB cable to the PC (it will take a while for it to install 5 drivers).

Build/Program

Open PSoC Creator (Start -> Programs -> Cypress -> PSoC Creator -> PSoC Creator)

Open project: File -> Open -> Project/Workspace; then browse to FRC2016/controls2016/SCB_Bootloader/SCB_Bootloader.cywrk)

Build project: Build -> Build All Projects

While you press and hold the SW1 Prog button on the cypress board, plug in the USB cable to the PC

Download Boot Loader:

  • open programmer: Tools -> Bootloader Host
  • set 'File' to C:\Users\Robotics\Desktop\FRC2016\controls2016\SCB_Bootloader\Bootloadable Blinking LED.cydsn\CortexM0\ARM_GCC_493\Debug\Bootloadable Blinking LED.cyacd
  • select the com port for the cypress board
  • set Baud to 115200; Data Bits 8; Stop Bits 1; Parity None
  • download program: Actions -> Program


Zero Delay USB Joystick Encoder

http://pickmygadget.eu/products/zero-delay-arcade-usb-encoder-pc-to-joystick-control-panel-for-mame-2pin-sanwa-type-push-buttons/

Meeting Minutes

1/14

Attendees: Eric, Mark, Aidan, Jeff, Brandon, Vincent, Josh

Work Completed: Initial brainstorming of controls design. Came up with a good concept based on a rotating lid with a top hat mounted to it.

1/15

Attendees: Mark

Work Completed: 

1/17

Attendees: Mark

Work Completed: 

1/18

Attendees: Eric, Aidan

Work Completed: Started CAD design of controls.

1/19

Attendees: Eric, Mark, Aidan, Jeff

Work Completed: Completed a bit more of the CAD design. Eric and Mark came up with a complete list of To Do items that have been updated on the Wiki which should be the focus of Saturday.

1/21

Attendees: Eric, Mark, Alex, Zach, Aidan

Work Completed: Updated the Wiki. Decided we are fabricating the hat. Order a bunch of parts. Determined overall outer dimesnsions of the control box. Andrew prefers first choice XBOX controller.

1/22

Attendees: Mark, Aidan

Work Completed: Met with drivers to determine what the controller buttons will be. Casey wants the Horipad (i.e. last year's control). Updated top hat pieces (1" bigger to look good with rest of stuff). Create drawings & files for had rim and lid. Finished hat rim and lid and sent it to Harris. CADed the base of the Iron.

Received: iron [on controls shelf]

1/24

Attendees: Mark, Aidan, Alex

Work Completed: Re-did hat lid drawings. Put new top into assembly and fixed constraint. Updated light cut outs in laptop holder. Updated CAD for power supply (Dell is bigger); Added CAD for Lights PWB

Received: power adaptor; usb board [they are in the blue controls coffee can]

1/25

Attendees: Mark

Work Completed: Removed retractable cord from iron. Re-did todo list. Filled in overall concept section.

1/26

Attendees: Eric, Zach, Aidan

Work Completed: Cleaned up the cord model a bit. Added a cap to the copper pipe in the model. Spent more time thinking about how the hinge is (not) going to work. We received the LED controller and switches too, they are in the blue bucket.

1/28

Attendees: Eric, Mark, Zach, Aidan, Alex

Work Completed: Thinned down the cord reel. Decided on placement of cord reel. Finalized laptop holder. Finalized base. Finalized pivot design. Top is complete, except for changes needed for support. Come up with ides for top latch/support.

1/29

Attendees: Mark, Aidan, Jeff, Andrew

Work Completed: Kickstand design completed and top modified. Cord reel bracket completed and bottom modified. Created drawings for: top, bottom, laptop holder, cord reel.

1/31

Attendees: Jeff, Alex, Mark, Zach, Eric

Work Completed: re-did laptop drawing, put picture of controls in overview section, found some parts we need, cleaned-up needed parts list

2/1

Attendees: Mark, Zach

Work Completed: Bent hat rim pieces. Attached flashing to top rim of top hat, using foam rivets that had there shank cut down.

2/2

Attendees: Eric, 1/8 Aidan

Work Completed: Fixed cord reel bracket drawing. Worked on the magnetic bracket a bit.

2/4

Attendees: Mark, Zach

Work Completed: Top hat riveted and hot glued rivets to prevent cables from getting cut. Spade connector put on broken switch connectors. Some more work on the 3D model for the USB hub gear. Dashboard all prep'd for 2017 work.

2/5

Attendees: Mark

Work Completed: tried to see if USB PWD could do analog; it could not.

2/7

Attendees: Zach, Mark, Alex

Work Completed: Finished magnet bracket, more work on hub gear

2/8

Attendees: Zach, Mark

Work Completed: Finished 3D model for usb hub gear

2/9

Attendees: Eric

Work Completed: Test fitted some of the metalwork. Found some issues. Created a list of the stuff that we need to do next.

2/11

Attendees: Eric, Zach, Mark

Work Completed: Put on handle, Fixed cord holder, Drilled and fitted hat onto top, Finished stand, Finished rotation pipe and mounted it to base. Disassembled and black spray paint completed.

2/12

Attendees: Mark, Zach

Work Completed: Completed spray painting. Re-assembled everything. LEDs installed (had change perf board placement so LEDs did not interfere with 1" pipe pivot and gear). Broken switches wired. Ethernet mount figured out and mounted. Wires run through 1" pipe. Kate & Ally were working on painting brim.

2/14

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2/15

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2/16

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2/18

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Work Completed: 

2/19

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2/21

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Archives

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